Hideaway Restaurant

It's hard to believe that a place as idyllic as Ocean Beach exists. Spotless, carless and litter-free, this Fire Island village is kept that way through strict regulations - its popular nickname is the "Land Of No." (In 1977, two people were famously arrested for eating cookies outside.) But after dining at Hideaway Restaurant, I propose a new moniker for Ocean Beach: the "Land of Yes, Yes, Yes!" Craig Attwood (formerly of NYC's Patroon and Islip's The Gatsby) is the Hideaway's executive chef, and he presides over an inspired menu with lots of seafood and a few Asian touches. (NOTE: As of 2009, Mr. Attwood is no longer at the Hideaway.)

Like Ocean Beach's other waterfront restaurants (Maguire's and Matthew's), the Hideaway features an outdoor dining deck. But diners can also enjoy the sunset inside, at a table decorated with fresh flowers and white votives in cornflower-blue holders. My companion and I sat by a window and watched people disembark from their boats to come and eat.

We sipped Shiraz and munched on warm focaccia as we waited for five-spiced baby back ribs and a beet and goat cheese napoleon. The six meaty ribs came with a refreshing salad of mint and lightly pickled watermelon slices. My napoleon was an imaginative creation - no puff pastry in sight, it was a little layered sculpture of beet circles, their juice painting warm goat cheese disks bright vermilion. The sweet beets mellowed the sharpness of the cheese.

I had considered ordering the yellowfin tuna sashimi appetizer, but figured this would be redundant with the coriander-crusted tuna. This dish was incredibly delicious; two seared pieces of tuna, their insides rare, lay atop a bed of buttered basmati rice interspersed with asparagus tips and slivers of shiitake. Green cilantro aioli encircled the dish. I finished every bite. My companion ordered the four giant diver scallops with watercress salad and oven-roasted tomatoes.

Fresh whipped cream was the final touch on each of our desserts, which were a zingy little Key Lime tart on an ultra-buttery crust, and a warm chocolate souffle cake accompanied by rum caramel banana pudding.

(I don't know how I had room for two Frisbee-sized banana pancakes at Rachel's Bakery the next morning. Maybe it was the effect of those ocean breezes.)

Hideaway Restaurant: Bay Walk, Ocean Beach, Fire Island, (631) 583-8900.